Boston/Bermuda/Maine Cruise Trip Report May 2 - 10, 2024

This trip marks my 10th cruise!  I ended up seeing a NCL seven dayer for a price I found reasonable (really, what's reasonable these days anyway?) and the air was an okay price too, so I booked it on the Norwegian "Gem".  Apparently it's a better ship than the "Star" I previously sailed on and didn't like much.  I booked a "solo" inside room with everything included (boozy drinks/wifi/specialty restaurant/$50 off each tour) including prepaid tips for $2000 CAD.  Air was another $600 but I upgraded for $200 more to include luggage, seat selection, free flight changes...This wasn't a true solo room (one single bed), it was just a small inside.

I've never been to Bermuda.  I've been through a lot of New England but not Bar Harbor where we were stopping.  As I LOVED Maine last visit, I was happy to be able to see this port too.  Dreams of clam bellies, clam chowder and lobster rolls danced in my head.  😋  Bermuda dollar is on par with the US greenback and interchangeable there.  This was good in the respect that it was easy for me to obtain but also bad in regards to the exchange rate.  Our Canadian dollar sucks balls.  It would be expensive for me off the ship...🤑  Nightmares of my last island trip to Hawaii with the cost...

I mentioned to my friend in Ohio I was going and she said she'd join me.  She also mentioned we met on my first cruise in May 1986 so this would be our 38th year friendship anniversary!  Wow, I'm old...but she's two years older than me, haha.

I decided to fly in the day before departure as my only flight option the day of was to arrive at 11:00 am and I was a little nervous about that in case of any hiccups.  Cut off to be on board was 2 pm.  I booked this hotel in the Seaport district.  It was a 5 minute walk to the cruise pier.  It was pricey though at $400 CAD for one night and it was only a 3-star hotel!  My son wanted me to book it and gifted me the room as he knows I stress out on travel days.  🥰

Wednesday, May 1, 2024 (Travel Day):

My flight was at 11:50 pm this evening.  I've never been able to sleep on a red-eye so didn't expect this flight to be any different.  I learned by a text from the airline that my flight was actually leaving at 10:50 pm (damn 24 hour clock!) and it was already 9 pm and I was sitting watching "Guys Grocery Games" on the t.v!  I raced out the door after I booked a taxi as I was ready to go a couple of hours earlier.  The day started rough (credit card scammed and they used my own email too!) and ended that way as well.  My luggage was overweight and I had to shuffle whatever I could to my carry-on which was jammed full as it was.  It was HEAVY.  My hands had rug burn from the straps scraping at them while trying to carry it around with me everywhere.  Anyway, I finally got approved for the luggage to go forward on the conveyor belt and just made it in time for suitcase to make it for cut-off and then to board the plane and leave.  It was all super stressful when time was so short.  But hey, I made it...  

Thursday, May 2, 2024 (Boston):

As expected I didn't sleep at all ( I watched two movies).  The airline had no food/drinks really as they had a strike going on so I got one small cup of water the whole trip).  I had to re-go through security (I got stopped in security and had all of my carry-ons eyeballed as I didn't take my tablet out which wasn't required last round at YVR airport) and then US customs in Toronto.  As I wasn't expecting any of this transferring between flights, I lost my expensive full $5 water bottle and just made it in time to board the flight, again.  I was able to rebuy the water I lost and it was 50 cents more expensive in T.O. as well!  I wished I could have done customs in Boston and skipped security twice in a row.  

The air time from Toronto to Boston was better as I had the whole row of seats to myself and the flight was only a couple hours.  After collecting my luggage (of course it was straddled on top of another piece and I had to climb to grab it off the turnstyle) I activated my esim then ordered an Uber for $23 USD ($32 CAD).  I tipped him $10 USD as I had to run around to find him while he waited patiently.  Uber pick up is on Departures level, not Arrivals and it was confusing to me so I had to go up a floor.  By the time I got to the hotel I was up for 24 hours straight.  Of course the front desk said there were no rooms ready but I politely told her of my tiredness and that I'd just sit and wait for a room then.  She then found me two Queen beds instead of the King I had booked.  I did not care in the slightest so jumped at the offer!  

View from my Room

I was wound up/kinda delirious now and so I typed this report while trying to get in the mood for shut eye...I liked that the hotel had key card access to get to the rooms hallways.  It made me feel secure...

I slept for two hours, then I got ready to head out and go get a lobster roll at "Yankee Lobster"  I got great walking directions from the front desk and put my google maps on but still made it a double effort jaunt, lol.  I even asked tourists who opened their mobile map and got me pointed right.  I strayed off the wrong way (again) and I could see him waving me back to the street they were on ('Northern' street it's on), lol.  Where I'm at in the Seaport District just feels very industrial and I was quite surprised to see as many people as I did while strolling along. I learned later that this area is an up and coming spot for young professionals which would explain why I saw so many peeps meandering about...

There was some drama going on when I got to the restaurant.  An inebriated gay man (and I only know this as he was screaming about not being served for that reason) had obviously too much to drink.  The police finally came but he had just departed.  

Everyone had been pretty chill about it, from staff to all the patrons he was loudly addressing and pandering his dismay to.  I ordered a glass of wine, Ipswich clam bellies and a traditional lobster roll.  I sat outside and people watched.  

Anyway, it was not cheap - $75 USD or $101 CAD pre tip!  The lobster roll was stuffed chock full though.  It was too bad it had absolutely zero flavor, as in bland 😕 .  It screamed at me begging for lobster taste.  The squeezed lemon just didn't bring anything to the party, sadly.  However, it was not lacking for lobster meat in any way; every bite got you huge chunks!  I've had them where there's a few nice pieces on top and then you find shredded lettuce hidden under it all.  Not with this one, nothing but lobster all the way to the bun.  From that aspect it was worth the price.  

The clam bellies were delish and I took them back to the room after trying a couple and put them in the fridge for later.  I fulfilled my personal Boston duties, though I would still have to find some clam chowdah later...I already had done my 10,000 steps for the day and the walk back only took about 10 minutes as opposed to the original 30 it took me, haha.

I had soooo many places on my dinner list.  In the end I chose to Uber to Union Oyster House as it's a Boston institution, a national historic landmark.  It was est. in 1826 and it's the longest running restaurant in America.  The weather had changed dramatically and it was cold, windy and rain stormy outside.   The place was packed jam full.  Uber was $13.60 and $5 USD more for tip.  Same on the return back.  I thought my picture above turned out so cool, like a painting almost...

I sat at the bar (my view from there pictured above).  I found one solo stool and ordered 6 Duxbury (from Cape Cod) oysters, a cup of chowdah (it's tiny like a sample taster in a ramekin!) and a glass of Pinot Grigio.  The chowder was soooo yummy.  It reminded me of when my son and I visited New England and we tried it every place we dined at, to compare.  

It was easy to talk to everyone there as you're seated elbow to elbow.  Really not the most comfortable stools (my leg started going numb) but you gotta appreciate that the place is still "as built", with no upgrades, and the colonial people were a lot shorter/smaller back in those days, haha.  After tip it was $55 USD or $75 CAD which was ridiculous but I knew that going to Boston (spending US$) anyway... 

Custom House Clock Tower is a skyscraper @ McKinley Square in the Financial District neighborhood of Boston

When I got back to the hotel I asked one of the bell staff how far the cruise terminal was and he walked me over to where the sidewalk was and pointed it out.  He said about 5 minutes walk with luggage so I was happy about that.  Flynn pier.   Well, with New England dining plans now complete (finished those amazing clam bellies which were still as good cold), body aching and running on fumes, I went off to la la land...Zzzzzz.  

Friday, May 3, 2024 (Boston):

I only slept for six hours surprisingly, but better than no sleep I suppose!  I was up early at 4 am.  When I realized I couldn't sleep any longer I got up and started to repack everything.  The older I get, the harder time changes are on me.  This wasn't as bad as my recent UK trip but I was off on my usual time schedule for sure!  I noticed how clean, unworn and spotless the room was.  I don't think I've stayed in a cleaner hotel room before, everything in it looked brand new.  They didn't supply drinking glasses which I thought was odd, but did give 4 paper coffee cups...I asked housecleaning and they said I'd have to ask at guest services.  I just used the paper cups but would have if my stay was longer.

I showered and got dressed.  Weather looked okay enough (cloudy) for shorts (I'm Canadian, eh - but really it was all I had as a choice) and then decided I could go for complimentary breakfast since I was on time for it (6 - 9 am). They had a decent enough spread with something for everyone.  My internal "off" button still wouldn't turn on...  The desk clerk told me where the hot water was for tea and said I had to push two buttons at the same time for hot water.  I found it and pushed the two buttons (looked at diagram) but then nothing came out.  I tried and waited and tried again, and nothing.  Another lady came over, read it, pushed the same two buttons and out came the water, LOL.  I could do nothing but shake my head...I gave up and asked her to pour mine.

My cruise ship boarding time was 10:30 - 11 am so I checked out at 10:20 and rolled my luggage over to the pier, which was cobblestone and didn't make the journey as easy as anticipated...I went inside to queue...

I was onboard by 11 am and drinking my first glass of prosecco.  

My friend msg'd and said she was on the way to the ship from the airport.  We met up and started drinking...and drinking...and more drinking.  It was a seaday tomorrow so I will always drink too much before those as I can sleep in as late as I want.  Below was my room, #5081 which was ideally situated by the stairs/elevator mid-ship.  I loved the location of it:

My friend said she was practicing to "not complain" while on this cruise and she even saw the above sign in a shop!  Well, we would ask each other often throughout the trip if we were complaining and then we'd say we weren't, we were just stating facts...😜 I call it "venting" and I need to do it, then I move on...  Anyway, it was a good reminder to practice "gratitude" instead.  😊  But if that was her theme of the cruise, mine was this:

We had dinner in the main dining room and lots of great catch-up chatting and babbling and more drinking.  They left me to retire for the evening and I went to the casino.  

I put in $50 and got up to $300 but put back another $100 and cashed out with $200 (so up $150).  I bought some scratch and wins but didn't even remember that.  I paid $20 I could see as I had $180 left.  I fell to bed about 3 - 4 am...

Saturday, May 4th, 2024 (Seaday):

I woke up at 1 pm (eastern time but 10 am mine).  By the time I showered and went for food, it was 3 pm.  Of course only the Irish pub was opened so I went there and had a burger that was actually very good!  My friends found me about an hour later at the martini bar.  We went to the casino high roller room which was empty and were able to chat all to ourselves.  I doubled my $20 scratch tickets to $40 but put that back in the slots and lost it.  

We had dinner at the steakhouse at 8:30 pm and were all excited for a great meal. 

We all enjoyed dinner.  Above, I had the Oysters Rockefeller, Lobster Bisque, NY Strip (medium rare and perfectly cooked) with Bearnaise sauce.  Everything tasted very good.  The prime rib her friend ate was chewy but at least she could eat it.  Chef came out and said he would send us a surprise something since the meal wasn't perfect.  I originally wanted to order prime rib but couldn't trust it after the last indedible one on NCL Star.  I ordered a dessert for my friend to take with her which was 7 layer chocolate cake and they had butterscotch cheesecake I believe.

We finished the evening at the Atrium bar.  This was my favorite setting on the ship, probably because it was two short stairwells to my room, haha.  I did NOT sleep well last night so I had to get to bed and be ready for Bermuda tomorrow.

Sunday, May 5th, 2024 (Bermuda!):

I set my alarm for 6:30 am as it was an hour later (4 hours ahead of my time now) in Bermuda and I had a busy, busy day planned.  My friends were on their own today.  I was sooooo excited to get here!!!  I activated my new esim and I then had cell data and was on Bermuda time.  

As soon as the ship docked and we were cleared just before 10 am, I made my way through the Royal Naval Dockyard to the transportation centre.  They had local tourist ambassadors all lined upon exiting to help you do whatever you wanted to.  I bought an all day ferry/bus ticket for $20 USD or $27 CAD.   I had just missed the 10 am ferry so had to wait for the 10:45.  I chatted to a lady from Puerto Rico who was with her son.  She was pretty organized and we were both going to the caves though she was stopping elsewhere first. Regardless, she had to get to the bus depot as well. 

On the ferry we were overrun by two senior foreigners who were posing like the wife was on a magazine/instagram model photo shoot.  He was prowling around with his big camera barking at her how to pose and where to stand.  They just had no idea of respecting people's personal space and the lady I was sitting with was starting to get angry while I tried to just see the humor in it, because I wasn't complaining 😉.  Below was some of the beautiful houses we could view on the way to Hamilton:

Once off the ferry, I walked along following her so she could show me where the bus depot was.  Saw Bermuda City Hall along the way:

It was great!  I got to be mindless and just tag along which I rarely get to do when solo.  The bus schedules were pretty good and when I found the one I needed, I asked two ladies who were waiting if that's where they were going.  They said indeed they were off to the caves and didn't mind if I followed them.  How fantastic for me!    

"Google Images" told me this is a Lantana Plant.  It was very beautiful.

I tagged along and did the Crystal Cave tour with them ($24 USD or $33 CAD).  They were both from Massachusetts (as was 90% of the cruise, it seemed) and the one lady was so happy and vibrant, she got picked to lead the tour ("The Chosen One" our guide called her), so we were first in/first out.  It was a nice perk!

The caves were magical and I'm sure there are much nicer ones out there in the world. I've never been to one so it was good to visit.  I pointed out all the stalagmites that looked like penises to my new pals.  

After our cave visit we walked to the ice cream palace and across the street was the Swizzle Inn (above), which was my destination.  Their slogan is,  "Swizzle in, Swagger out".  

I tried the legendary drink and got a bowl of Bermuda Fish Chowder.  It doesn't photograph well as it's brown but from what it lacks in looks, it makes up in taste. It was truly delicious, finished with a sherry vinegar, and rum drizzle.  The drink was awesome as well, in fact it was the best (in my opinion) of all I tried on the island.

After that I caught the bus back to the ferry.  The stop is across the street at the ice cream parlour.  A #3 came along and he said he could get me there.  Of course I was nervous now and stood up a couple of times, but he told me when it was next stop and then told me I shouldn't have stood up till he came to a complete stop.  I think he was happy to get me off his bus with all my nervous energy.  I caught the ferry back and had finished my day pretty early.  

I found my friends on the pier and we had a Swizzle at the "Frog n Onion" pub.  I went to the main dining room as soon as it opened at 5:30 pm and had almond crusted hoki for dinner.  

Not my favorite fish but I have to say that food this time was much better than my last NCL cruise.  I made my way out to the Gosling's Rum tour and got on board.  

I enjoyed all the narrated info provided.  The drinks were interesting  and we even went through the Bermuda Triangle!  We also got to see the sunset.

I was definitely swaggering by the time I debarked on this one.  I had a few more drinks back at the ship, lost more in the casino and then went to sleep.

Monday, May 6th, 2024 (Bermuda):

I got up and had a quick breakfast in the main dining room.  Eggs were generally always cooked perfectly and below was a dish called "Loaded Potatoes".

Today was our private "Island Tour".  This was booked with Heidi Cowen of "Byway Tours".  She showed up with her King Charles Cavalier Spaniel dog "Toppy" who was just adorable.  My friend was in heaven as she always has rescue dogs and is a wonderful mommy to them, so she loved spending time with Toppy.    

Basically this trip covered the entire island with all the highlights.  This below at Scaur Hill Fort & Park made me giggle, though true...:

• A dry stone means… it is not raining.
• A wet stone means… it is raining.
• A shadow under the stone means… the sun is shining.
• If the stone is swinging it means… there is a strong wind blowing.
• If the stone jumps up and down it means… there is an earthquake.
• If ever it is white on top… believe it or not… it is snowing.

Most interesting fact to me was the water supply in Bermuda is made by rain.  The roofs are all made to catch and funnel the water in houses to be purified and put in storage tanks for use.  Also, houses to buy start at about $850,000 and only go up from there.  Originally, I thought Bermuda was in the Caribbean but it's actually the oldest self-governing overseas territory in the British Commonwealth.  Below, Somerset Bridge is the world's smallest working drawbridge!  It spans only 22 inches (56 cm).

We then stopped to feeds some fishies and Toppy had a wonderful time with the ducks though they didn't like her.  😀

Next we were off to Warwick Long Bay and Jobson's Cove.  The coves were like private beaches.  This was my favorite stop of the day!  It was stunningly beautiful with its white/pink powdery sand beaches and the water color of the ocean was out of this world the prettiest blue ever!!!  I could have took pictures there forever...

We stopped for lunch next and had the infamous "Bermuda Fish Sandwich".  That's fried fish with tartar sauce on toasted raisin bread.  It's that sweet/salty thing.  

I was surprised that I was underwhelmed with it, I guess I had high expectations.  Maybe because by the time we ate the fish had gone soggy?  I could only eat half.  Also our lunch setting was not ideal.  

Don't get me wrong, the pier where we were was scenic but there was nowhere to sit for half the group and there was garbage all around the picnic table she chose.  And for those sitting on the ground, the birds started to prey...

That was really my only gripe of the tour.  Below, Heidi said this was a heron and "google images" told me it's a yellow-crowned night heron.

Next stop was the town of St. George's.  We got a half hour of free time here so we went and drank a Rum Swizzle.

Heidi had to pick up some art at a private resort and then we were off to our last stop which was Gibb's Hill lighthouse.  It was closed for entering inside and walking up to the top due to renovations.  We perused the gift shop and everything was better priced there than anywhere else I'd seen so far.

By the tour end it felt a little tiring (imagine if we had been able to climb up the lighthouse, haha). I would maybe have trimmed an hour off the 6 hours.  Anyway, it was great value and she had full knowledge of Bermuda and was a local artist as well.  $100 USD and I tipped her another $20.  And then, it was time for a lemon drop martini!  

When I got back to the room, I saw I had treats from the chef.  Unfortunately they were inedible, as in dry and tasteless.

I met my friends for dinner in the main dining room.  We were joined by the two ladies I met on the cave tour so got a table for five.  They only stayed till dinner was finished as they were running to an early show.  My friend and I saw the comedian after dinner.  He was funny.  She made us sit front row though.  

Then, as we did most nights we would sit in a bar and giggle, drink wine and have really spicy funny conversations about the past.  Her friend went to bed early most nights so we would reminisce about the old days and it was really a good time.  

Tuesday, May 7th, 2024 (Bermuda):

This was our last day in Bermuda and we went to the Horseshoe Bay beach.  We used the ship's transfer which was free for me but not for my friends as per how the NCL credits worked.  Anyway, for future, don't use the ship's transfers.  You can buy a mini bus transport for $7 USD each way and be on your own schedule.  As it turned out, we only had about two and half hours of beach time.  And it was ridiculously expensive for any amenities.  We had to pay $20 each for our chairs and an umbrella would have been an additional $40!  Then drinks hovered in the $20 range.  A hot dog was $8, etc. etc.  

I got some color here so it was tanning weather but wowza, the water was chilllllly! 😰 I did go in twice and it was soft sandy bottom, crystal clear and just the ideal place for a dip even if it did feel like a plunge into ice cubes.  🧊

For dinner that evening, we ate in the sister restaurant to the main dining room called Magenta.  Below, the stuffed mushrooms might have been our favorite bite on the whole cruise.  They were delish and very reminiscent of escargot with the stuffing.  Yum.

And for entree I had Southern Fried Chicken.  It was pretty perfect.  No complaints at all, not that I would complain...😜

My friends and I had a few more drinks, they departed and I went to the casino and lost all my winnings.  I didn't return again for the rest of the trip.  The slots were definitely tight now and lots of others agreed. 

Wednesday, May 8th, 2024 (Seaday):

Well, back to the excess of day drinking...

In the evening my friends said we went to the show.  I don't remember any of it, but it appears I did snap a few pics, lol.  I'm sure it was cheesy but they said we all enjoyed it.  

I remember we saw a couples game show where they had to burst balloons with each others bodies and then we danced...

I remember having a late night munchie at the Irish bar and that was it...though walking back to our rooms with my friend I remember seeing a rainfall of water coming down the stairs somewhere, something leaked...

Thursday, May 9th, 2024 (Bar Harbor, Maine):

My alarm to get up went off very early and I was HUNGOVER!!!!  The only thing I could eat was a tablespoon of peanut butter and on a small piece of dry toast and that was my first and only visit to the buffet this trip.  My favorite staff person who always called me "Ms. Purple" due to my clothes and accessories said I looked "down".  I told her I was tired...

It was cold today.  8°C or 46°F!  I went to change out of my shorts and T-shirt and grab a jacket but was called to Customs and couldn't get to my room.  It was screwed up for me and we had to go through Customs on the ship here before we could go to Bar Harbor.  As I had an excursion booked I was supposed to be priority.  When I checked in, no one asked me so I cued in the line.  Then I remembered so I went back to the desk.  They said I was being searched for and was late.  When the person found me, he rushed me to the front of the line and I was done with Customs.  Then he said we had to go NOW to the tender boat.  He was on his radio and said, "I found the LAST person".  I asked him if I could get a jacket but he said no and rushed me down to the boat and off we went.  A lady eyed me up and down and said, "You're a brave one, aren't ya?".  I felt naked, LOL.  

I reached Bar Harbor by 10 am and my tour didn't start till noon!  Anyway, I headed to the first shop I saw and bought a Bar Harbor hoodie sweatshirt.  That felt warmer though it was $50 I didn't need to spend.  I walked around until it was time for my walking tour, lol.  

Bar Harbor got a referendum passed that cruise ships with more than 1000 passengers will no longer be able to dock there next year.  My guide said the big ships will be looking at Portland or Freedom, Maine going forward.  My walking tour was about the "Gilded Age".  I've been watching a series about it on HBO and was interested in the history.  Mostly we were shown houses and they were all lovely.  Like Bermuda, Bar Harbor properties start around a million (small ranch style home) and go up from there...Below is the Bar Harbor Beach Club:

I took so many pictures of houses (walking around made me feel like I was in a Stephen King novel like Maine always does) so I'll have to strip it down to a few pics  and I'll throw in one of a boneyard:

I had done research and picked my restaurant for a lobster roll.  I msg'd my friend and said I'd meet them there.  We went to the "Thirsty Whale".  

Of course I had to order whole clam bellies again too and I loved them.  It's a treat I could never get at home, and when in New England...

OK, the lobster roll ($27 USD or $37 CAD) was the BEST lobstah roll I've ever had in my life.  You could taste the lobster and it was sweet and succulent.  I normally don't eat the bread but couldn't help myself it was that good.  The slaw was also mouth watering delicious.  Even my friend agreed that this was a winning, winning dish.  I'm still dreaming about it.

Then we were so chilled to the bones we decided to go back to the ship.  Much drinking went on at the Atrium bar and we finished our evening together at dinner in the main dining room.  We said our goodbyes and I closed out the Atrium bar for last call.  Thank goodness I was all packed and my luggage was out the door...

Friday, May 10th, 2024 (Boston & Home):

I had ordered room service ($5 USD or $7 CAD) for breakfast so I didn't have to battle the hoards of people this morning.  Unfortunately I ordered it for 7:30 - 8 and it arrived at 8 am.  My phone rang as soon as I got it and it was the shore excursion desk.  He asked me if I remembered I booked an excursion as it was 8:00 and I was the last one not there.  So, no breakfast for me.  I ran from one aisle to the next squeezing between luggage and people before I found the theatre.  We waited a half hour before leaving so I could have eaten...

Anyway, I booked a city tour of Boston as my flight didn't leave till 3:30 pm and it was cheap with my discount.  Cheaper than taking an Uber or taxi to the airport and it would kill some time.  It was an okay tour.  We  got out twice.  Once below here at Trinity Church:

And, once here at the USS Constitution:

We were dropped by 11 am to Logan airport and I had hours and hours to kill still.  When I checked in they told me I'd have to collect my luggage in Montreal.  As we were running late I asked if I'd be able to make my flight and they said all flights were late today so shouldn't be a problem...

I've always been a Bruins fan since I started watching hockey as a kid.  Unfortunately my Vancouver Canucks made me quit it for good though...🙄

So, I went to Legal Seafoods for lunch.  My son and I ate at one of these restaurants for our splurge lobster meal when we visited Boston.

I tried the New England Haddock bake $36 USD or $50 CAD (just okay).  And a cup of chowdah $12 USD or $16.50 CAD (delish!).  I didn't want to have a lobster roll as I doubted it could match yesterdays...

When I got to Montreal, I followed connecting flights signage and didn't end up having to collect my luggage.  All that stress for nothing.  Didn't even have to do security again, just Customs by machine and that was quick and painless.  Flight home I watched 2 movies again and bawled at both of them, lol.  (Gladiator was one, haha).  I got in, had a small bite to eat and then was in bed by 10 pm my time (1 am Eastern)...

Summary:

I enjoyed this trip.  I love New England, and Bermuda was splendid in its beauty.  Of note though, it was special that I have a 38 year friendship to celebrate and it was very meaningful to me.  I felt a lot of gratitude this journey.  Now I need a vacation from the vacation.  I ended up with cankles in Bermuda and still have them now.  I need to give my liver a well deserved rest.  Next trip is Italy in October so lots of planning ahead.  Until next time...